850Fab Tuning Rates and Structure
So you think you are ready for tuning? Let's go over a few things so we are both on the same page and you receive an experience that is positive and a tune that turns out like it is supposed to.
So what is included with a standard tune?
- Every engine gets a compression test where the spark plugs are easily accessible. IF this is a new engine, please let me know. Startup calibrations are VERY important to the future of your engine. You do not want to be starting the engine with a calibration that is flooding an engine with fuel which is in the process of seating the rings.
- IF there is any abnormal with your compression test, you will be informed of the possibility of further diagnostics such as a leak down test. Further diagnostics are an upcharge. I will not tune an engine which is not working properly. You will be asked to take the engine home and fix the issues or you can leave it with me to diagnose and repair.
Basic inspection. Prior to any tuning is done, street or dyno, a visual inspection will be done on the car and engine. Engine oil leaks, coolant leaks, broken suspension parts will be noted. If your vehicle needs to be dyno tuned and is leaking (note: not little leaks) oil or coolant, you will be asked to fix these problems before getting on the dyno. This is a courtesy to the people I rent the dyno from. That is a very expensive piece of equipment and out of courtesy, leaking fluids all over it is not respectful.
Base timing. Setting base timing is standard and done with EVERY engine. This is done to properly calibrate the ECU so what I see in the engine management as far as timing is what the engine is actually seeing. This is VERY important.
Please prepare your vehicle properly to be tune. If I am street tuning, I do not want to tune a car with a sloppy steering wheel or a worn out tie rod. I will not risk my life to tune your car.
If all is well with the car and engine after inspection, I will perform the normal standard tuning process which does NOT include additional options such as boost by gear, secondary mapping, race gas tunes or ANY mechanical work aside from checking and replacing spark plugs. Those are additional options which take more time and thus I will charge more to set them up.
After tuning is completed, on the dyno, I will test drive the vehicle on the street to insure everything is still proper. It is very common to need to make slight changes due to load differences between the dyno and street.
Now let's talk about expectations.
Ask yourself a few questions:
Do you have the right parts to achieve the goal you want or did you buy whatever fit your bill and hoping for it to turn out right?
-- If you don't know the right parts to pick, please contact me for guidance prior to buying any old part off the shelf which could be a big waste of money.
Tuning is not a magic wand. There is only so much I can do with the injectors and ignition timing. Tuning does not fix worn out parts, poorly chosen parts, poor installation, poor mechanic ability, inflated egos, or exaggerated expectations of power.
So what are proper components?
Lets start with injectors.
Please dont come to me "ready" for tuning with 20 yr old used injectors. I will require you to replace them and upgrade to injectors which are modern and can do what I want them to do. Please do not come in "ready" for tuning with 2000cc injectors for your 300-400whp car. It is completely overkill and your drivability WILL be effected. Injectors are central to how well your engine runs and can make or break your engine. NICE injectors are cheap insurance. Why let your engine fail or your tune be less than stellar because you chose to skimp out on a few hundred bucks?
If you don't know what injectors to buy or what to purchase for your fuel system, PLEASE contact me prior to buying any parts. Chances are I can supply you with better parts and actually save you money in the long run.
How about fuel pumps?
If you are turbocharged, you need a fuel pump which can supply the proper amount of fuel to the fuel rail and the injectors not suck the rail dry. Do not come to me ready for tuning with a stock fuel pump. Again, if you do not know what to buy, please contact me prior to tuning and lets get it sorted. A fuel regulator is a great tool for tuning and can help me fine tune the injector spray pattern and even increase the duty cycle of the injectors if we near their limits at stock rail pressure.
Part selection and how an engine is assembled is critical to its life and how it reacts to the power and the tuning process. Tuning is hard on the engine and I will be putting it through its paces. Parts fail. It is simply something that happens. Quality parts normally withstand the abuse better than the budget parts but nothing is bullet proof. I do everything in my power to keep engines safe during this process, but I do not have a crystal ball and I cannot predict the future. I can only guarantee that I have created a calibration which is suitable to what the engine wants (not necessarily what you want).
Keep it simple and don't buy things you don't need. Most turbocharged street honda's do not need much more than stock camshafts. For instance, take a turbocharged H22. Stock camshafts will support 600whp. If you dont plan on making over 600whp, leave the camshafts alone. However, valvesprings, retainers and valves may be a great idea! Building a drag car for the street will not drive or perform like a purpose built street car so keep that in mind and set your goals properly.
Power expectations, your build and realistic goals
The dyno is a tuning tool which allows me to safely simulate driving on the street while getting a dyno charge which shows me how well the engine is responding to the setup and tuning. Peak numbers are NOT important and they will vary from dyno to dyno and from day to day. Setting realistic horsepower goals for your setup is crucial to not being let down on dyno day. But I do not promise anything. If you are wanting 600whp but your engine is showing ill signs at 400whp, don't expect me to push past the signs and keep turning it up.
Street tuning can be very dangerous once cars start making a certain amount of power. The power limit for street tuning is roughly 400-450whp for FWD cars. Beyond that power, things get hairy and I simply cannot keep track of the computer and the street. While I want you to get what you want, I have a family and I'm not risking my life for that. If you want to make that kind of power, we need to start on the dyno.
standard street tuning
-(includes setting single boost stages with controller) - $300
- all additional options such as Boost by Gear, secondary mapping, race gas tunes are charged by the hour + any components necessary.
- same pricing and structure as street tuning + dyno rates.
Pricing is based on use stock ECU's with Neptune or Hondata. Standalone engine management systems which require custom configuration and sensor calibrations are not included in standard tuning costs. Please contact me with what you have and we can discuss what is necessary!